We haven’t seen many day hikers on the Trail over the last six weeks until today. The trailheads were packed with cars and there were day hikers crowded all over the viewing spots. I’m glad to see that people are back but it is a little unnerving. We are using masks when people pass byContinue reading “How do you feel about crowds?”
Category Archives: Uncategorized
Together We Can Save Pennsylvania!
I did the maths today and figured out a way to save Pennsylvania. My Guana Island friends are already getting a good laugh because they have to help me add at Farkle but bear with me – this is really important. The AT runs through Pennsylvania for 228 miles. Approximately half of that is coveredContinue reading “Together We Can Save Pennsylvania!”
Uh oh. Almost in New Jersey
It really hit us today how fast we were going when we planned out the next few days and realized that we are going to be in New Jersey on Monday. It was a mixture of relief to be almost done with the rocks but at the same time we don’t want the trip toContinue reading “Uh oh. Almost in New Jersey”
Beaver Dam, Bunches of Rocks and a Busted Nose
We camped at a really cool spot last night and the porcupines were so funny. They played and called to each other outside of our tents for about and hour and it had us all giggly until we fell asleep. I woke up really refreshed and ready to hit the Trail. I felt pretty beatContinue reading “Beaver Dam, Bunches of Rocks and a Busted Nose”
It’s Not All Hype
So many things I heard about the Trail turned out to be different than what I experienced. I did not get the “Virginia Blues” and I’ve yet to get a blister. However, they were not kidding about the rocks in Pennsylvania. When we left the coffee shop in Boiling Springs on Monday the Barista apologizedContinue reading “It’s Not All Hype”
Pennsylvania is in the way
One of my favorite dark comedies is the 1997 film The House of Yes staring Parker Posey. Posey plays a woman that as been recently released from a mental hospital and she is obsessed with Jaqueline Kennedy Onassis. She even calls herself Jackie O and dresses up in vintage Jackie drag. Her character is smartContinue reading “Pennsylvania is in the way”
The Half Gallon Challenge
You would think that going from Georgia to Maine would be enough of a challenge but these crazy thru hikers have developed little mini challenges along the way. There is the Grayson Highlands Pony Challenge where you are supposed to try to ride a wild pony for at least seven seconds. Fortunately, we didn’t learnContinue reading “The Half Gallon Challenge”
The Half Gallon Challenge
You would think that going from Georgia to Maine would be enough of a challenge but these crazy thru hikers have developed little mini challenges along the way. There is the Grayson Highlands Pony Challenge where you are supposed to try to ride a wild pony for at least seven seconds. Fortunately, we didn’t learnContinue reading “The Half Gallon Challenge”
Happy Mother’s Day Mom
One of the best things about a thru hike is that you have so much time to think and to think deeply. Hikers also talk a lot about the feeling that you have people hiking in spirit with you and I’ve been spending a lot of time hiking with Mom. As you all know, sheContinue reading “Happy Mother’s Day Mom”
Smiling With Your Eyes
A photographer once told me that you can tell the difference between a fake smile and a genuine one by looking at the person’s eyes. If their eyes are smiling with them then it is for real. I’ve been thinking a lot about this lately in this new age of mask wearing and trying myContinue reading “Smiling With Your Eyes”
The Essentials
One of my favorite documentaries is called The Minimalists by Joshua Fields Millburn and Ryan Nicodemus. They also have a great podcast that I’ve been listening to a lot on the Trail. They are spreading the word that we can all live with much less and be happier in the end. Their message really resonatesContinue reading “The Essentials”
State by State
We’ve been in Virginia for so long that we got used to the way that state was handling the pandemic but things are radically different just across the state lines. As soon as we got into West Virginia and Maryland the change was drastic and shocking. Literally everything is shut down in Harpers Ferry exceptContinue reading “State by State”
Going With The Flow
This might come as a complete surprise to you but I am a bit of a planner. I love to think through how each day is supposed to go and then execute that no matter what gets in my way. I think this approach has been a blessing and a curse in my life. InContinue reading “Going With The Flow”
Goodbye Virginia!
Today was filled with wonderful and hard fought milestones. We crossed the 1,000 mile mark and finally made it out of Virginia. She didn’t give up easily and threw the famous “roller coaster” set of hills at us as we fought to reach the state line. We’ve been in Virginia for more than five weeksContinue reading “Goodbye Virginia!”
Big Lots!
A few weeks ago I was thinking a lot about chain reactions and how we might be able to help each other in this stressful time. I’ve been doing small things like leaving double tips for hotel housekeeping, buying extra laundry supplies and leaving them in the laundromat and thanking all of the restaurants thatContinue reading “Big Lots!”
We Love Pancho
I first met Pancho on Trail about six weeks ago. He was hiking with Oso and helping out a little with resupply for a few hikers. As the virus made things more complicated, he made the gracious choice to devote the rest of the year to helping the few hikers that stayed on Trail. PanchoContinue reading “We Love Pancho”
Bears!
This was our third day of our big push to get through this section. We did another 28 miles and the weather was amazing. About a quarter of the way through the hike we came across this mother bear and three of her sweet cubs. I think you can only see two of the cubsContinue reading “Bears!”
We should be better at this by now
We are pushing through a particularly remote area if the AT right now and doing some genuine back country camping. No shelters or nice campsites for at least 4 days. Just a sorta flat area near a water source for us. We are also in bear country in the spring and hikers are seeing themContinue reading “We should be better at this by now”
Happy Birthday Bryan
I’ve had a lot of time lately to think. About 10 hours a day, in fact. It’s mostly about how lucky I am to have Bryan in my life. Today is his Birthday and I wanted to surprise him with a visit but things are just too crazy right now. Instead, I made this videoContinue reading “Happy Birthday Bryan”
She Will Not Be Rushed
I made a rookie mistake today. I tried to rush the Trail and that just doesn’t work. I slept in a barn on some property along the Blue Ridge Parkway last night that a guy opens up to cyclists and hikers. It wasn’t much but it was nice of him to offer the place. IContinue reading “She Will Not Be Rushed”
Forgive Me Father – Rated PG 13
Every shelter has a logbook and at the Priest Shelter it is tradition to write a confession of your trail transgressions. They are really funny and we got a kick out of reading them aloud. Here is a good example: “Forgive me Father for I have sinned. My cat holes are rarely deep enough andContinue reading “Forgive Me Father – Rated PG 13”
Favorite Part
I felt great today after our wonderful stay in Glasgow last night. Our host Charlie got up early and made us a huge stack of pancakes before dropping us off at the trailhead. He sent us off on our morning climb with full bellies and some great AT stories. Charlie thru hiked the AT lastContinue reading “Favorite Part”
Now That Was Fun
We woke up today super early to try to beat the bad storms that were scheduled to start in the morning. We had a 20 mile hike into Glasgow and wanted to get into town and find some shelter as quickly as possible. We left camp at 6 all wrapped up and ready for theContinue reading “Now That Was Fun”
Downhill Virginia
We are just past the half way mark on Virginia. When we crossed the state line near Damascus, it seemed like such a huge task to get through the biggest part of the AT but now I can feel how the next two weeks should play out until we get to Harpers Ferry. The halfContinue reading “Downhill Virginia”
Town? Meh.
Before I started hiking the Trail I thought that the town stops would be the best. I loved reading all of the silly details in my guide book about opening times and menu options for the country restaurants near the trail heads. I don’t know if it’s because of the virus or not but I’mContinue reading “Town? Meh.”
McAfee Knob
Today was a big day. We got up to McAfee’s Knob for the iconic AT hiker photo on top of the rock monolith looking over the Virginia valleys. The weather was perfect and we spent about an hour at the summit celebrating over 710 miles of happy hiking. We’ve had our share of headwind overContinue reading “McAfee Knob”
Living in My Body
I was chatting with a friend yesterday and she said something that really stuck with me today. She said that I am truly living in my body on this adventure. I love the way this sounds and it elegantly describes what we’ve been trying to put into words. Mallwalker and I have been talking aContinue reading “Living in My Body”
Learning to be Soft
I’ve been trying to beat the Trail the last few days and she is winning. She always wins. In all of the AT books that I’ve read this is the most common theme. If you try to push through fatigue and hard days you will end up with nothing but injuries and burnout. We’ve hadContinue reading “Learning to be Soft”
Groundhog Day
I promise I am not recycling my blog posts but this one is going to seem very similar to one from last week. We set up camp in a warm afternoon on a beautiful ridge overlooking the valley. As soon as we went to bed I heard ice crystals pelting the rain fly. I wasContinue reading “Groundhog Day”
Pack Mules
I started laughing out loud on our hike out of Pearisburg this morning. My pack was so heavy coming out of town that got to thinking that I look like one of those pack mules that they use in the Grand Canyon. We are moving at about the same pace and smell very similar. TheContinue reading “Pack Mules”
Spa Day at the Plaza
We had strong storms last night but stayed dry and the rain stopped just in time for our 7 AM departure back on the Trail. Although the rain had stopped, the Trail was a river of rushing cold water. It was actually a blast to hike through once we got over getting our shoes soaked.Continue reading “Spa Day at the Plaza”
Luck and Kindness
We got lucky today and were able to get through our 15 mile hike today without any rain. We slept so soundly next to the waterfall last night and headed back on the trail at 7:30. The terrain was easy today but we were really feeling the last few long days. Plus, we’ve been outContinue reading “Luck and Kindness”
600. Miles or Calories Per Hour?
Virginia is complicated but worth it. She lashed out at us yesterday with that nasty storm and tried to blow us off of Chestnut Knob. She must have felt especially bad for that because she put on quite a show for us today. Bright clean cold air followed us through our entire 20 mile hike.Continue reading “600. Miles or Calories Per Hour?”
Just Kidding
Remember all that sweet stuff about chasing spring? Geckos, butterflies and rainbows? Forget about it. Virginia pulled a fast one on us last night. I set my tent up on a beautiful field on Chestnut Knob with the plan of sipping my coffee while watching the warm sunrise from my tent. See, doesn’t this lookContinue reading “Just Kidding”
Spring Again
I’ve said it before but the coolest thing about a north bound thru hike is chasing spring. We see new things every day and then see them again the next week as we move farther north. Today’s hike was a really impressive showing of the spring show that Virginia puts on. It all started withContinue reading “Spring Again”
Keeping it Real
When I called my Mom yesterday she answered “Well, Hello Wal-Mart Shopper!” This is not just and honest statement because I was shopping there that day but a well deserved dig at one of the biggest snobs out there. Me. I’ve worked hard and made a decent living which has led me to some ofContinue reading “Keeping it Real”
My New Bestie Bob
I’m running scared when I come near towns these days. I am afraid that the locals are going to be at the town line with their pitchforks out warding off hikers. This is not a joke since we hear that is what has happened recently in a Bland, Virginia. Not sure what to believe butContinue reading “My New Bestie Bob”
Sunrise Pony Cafe
Here is how to start at perfect day. Wake up and head out to a beautiful field along a ridge near your campsite with a cup of coffee. Gently lean against a wild pony and softly stroke her fluffy mane as the sun creeps above the ridge and warms your face. Slowly sip your coffeeContinue reading “Sunrise Pony Cafe”
Wild Ponies, Good Friends and Brownies!
We hiked the Grayson Highlands today and it was amazing. The temps were in the los 60s and we were excited for the chance to check out the wild ponies near the end of our hike. I was also looking forward to spending part of the day with our good friends Michele and Craig. MicheleContinue reading “Wild Ponies, Good Friends and Brownies!”
Back Into The Light
Walking out of my B&B this morning and back on the trail felt amazing. Away from the New York Times and the spiral of bad news and into the clean air and sunshine. The familiar white blazes were there to welcome and guide me back into the forest. My heavy pack felt reassuring and familiar.Continue reading “Back Into The Light”
Zero in a Hole
Zeros are supposed to be restful and fun. Sleeping in and lazily shopping for resupply items are the only things on the agenda. Maybe a beer in the afternoon? Unfortunately, I spent yet another zero deep in the Coronavirus vs Appalachian Trail hole. It seems to get darker each time I get in and todayContinue reading “Zero in a Hole”
Weather Wonderland
We climbed out of Hampton TN on Tuesday morning and headed through Laurel Canyon and the beautiful Laurel Falls. The hiking in Tennessee has been interesting because we are passing through a mixture of private land with easements for the AT and some state parks. Most of today’s hike went along side the Watauga lakeContinue reading “Weather Wonderland”
A Different World
I am getting a few questions about why I am staying on trail and I wanted to spend an few minutes trying to explain this from the perspective of a hiker. It’s a different world out here. The trail is peaceful, safe and it’s easy to access resupply stores. We are isolated from the virusContinue reading “A Different World”
400!
The first 100 miles seemed to take forever but the last few are falling fast. Mallwalker, Jitter and I made it to 400 today a little after we climbed out of our overnight stay at the Mountain Harbor B&B. It is rated #1 in the AT Platinum Blazing guide book and for good reason. OurContinue reading “400!”
Roan Mountain
Roan Mountain has been a goal for a long time now. I’ve been wanting to hike this area since I first read about it in a great nonfiction book called “Stand Up That Mountain” by Jay Erskine Leutze. It is the story of a lawyer that saved one of the most beautiful sections of theContinue reading “Roan Mountain”
Falling Trees, Coyotes and a Giant Fire
First off – an apology. I forgot to update everyone on Proper. Bryan took amazing care of her in Decatur and as she was heading back to Davenport Gap her father urged her to come home and she flew back to The Netherlands the next day. She sent us a beautiful chocolate thank you treatContinue reading “Falling Trees, Coyotes and a Giant Fire”
New Age Zero
In this new age of AT hiking amongst the virus the classic zero is turned on its head. I only had one zero in the good ole days 3 weeks ago and it was awesome. We hung out at a hostel in Franklin and shared food and played guitar. Ahhhh. Remember back then? Now, itContinue reading “New Age Zero”
Push to Pizza
I got up early today with the intention of doing a 20 mile day to the No Business Knob shelter and then finishing up tomorrow to Erwin, TN. The morning was beautiful and as Jitter and I climbed out of camp we met the sun coming over the mountains and a sweet lab mix playingContinue reading “Push to Pizza”
Something Sweet, Beautiful or Warm
The mountains were perfect today. The sun was warm and the breeze was light and cooling. The fog cleared out early and left long clean views and fresh air that had just a hint of spring sweetness. My body is really hitting its stride. My feet feel great and I’ve found my favorite strides forContinue reading “Something Sweet, Beautiful or Warm”
Chain Reaction
My friend Matthew turned me on to this great little band called Cloud Cult and my favorite song of theirs is called “Chain Reaction” from their 2007 album “The Meaning of 8.” These lyrics ring so true to me and something I think about every day. It goes like this: “You have eyes like mine.Continue reading “Chain Reaction”
Sweet Hot Springs
Frankly I was pretty worried as I descended into Hot Springs. I was afraid the trail towns would be shunning thru hikers because of the virus. The last few days have been bad. The terrain is fine but the weight of everything going on in the world feels like an extra ton in my pack.Continue reading “Sweet Hot Springs”
Spring
One of the coolest things about a northbound thru hike is that you get to walk through spring for weeks on end as it is happening right before your eyes. These sweet little wildflowers showed up for the first time today and it made me stop and look around for a bit. The trees areContinue reading “Spring”
Taco Takes a Break
The virus news is getting worse by the minute and I am going to get back on the trail tomorrow morning but Chuck a/k/a Taco is going to head back home with Bryan. My hope is that things are going to settle down enough for him to come back on trail when Neil returns inContinue reading “Taco Takes a Break”
Sunrise at Charlie’s Bunion
It’s a terrible name but a spectacular spot in the Smokies about 4 miles from Newfound Gap that looks down into the valleys below from an outcropping of rock just off the AT. My hiking buddies that I’ve been with for the past few days and I decided to get up early and head outContinue reading “Sunrise at Charlie’s Bunion”
Peace with the Smokies
Woke up today in a crazy good mood and anxious to hit the climb up to Clingmans Dome. I don’t know if it was the 13 hours I spent in my sleeping bag or the great sleep I got with the hard rain last night but I was ready to get things right with theContinue reading “Peace with the Smokies”
Bad Mountain Juju
Talking with my shelter mates Braids and Pitstop tonight, we all agree that the Smokies are not our favorite section. Here are our reasons. The ATC ridge runners act like babysitter cops and stop and ask you for your permit in the most unfriendly ways possible. You are required to stay in shelters with theContinue reading “Bad Mountain Juju”
Fontana Damn It
Spooky. I just came off a pretty down day and as I lay down in the shelter I look up at the ceiling and see this reassuring message to help me sleep. The trail really does provide. In this case some much needed emotional support. I went into Fontana yesterday thinking I would take aContinue reading “Fontana Damn It”
Proper
I had a great night sleep at the Brown Fork Gap Shelter. I had set up my tent in a really quiet part of a small valley near the stream and it was a warm night. Chuck insisted on being on my sleeping bag and pad so we spooned and he rested his head onContinue reading “Proper”
Taco and Low Branch
We started out from NOC with the plan to just hike 8 miles since the elevation looked nasty. As we climbed out of the valley, the sun came out and trapped the clouds down below. The conditions were perfect but the trail was challenging as promised. I stopped for a break and ran into Bilbo,Continue reading “Taco and Low Branch”
Caution: Emotions Ahead
I had a great connection with a fellow hiker last night over dinner here at the Nantahala Outdoor Center. I don’t know how it came up but we started talking about how much we have been crying over the last few days. The first week was all planning, worrying and adrenaline. Now I am acceptingContinue reading “Caution: Emotions Ahead”
From Gooder to Great
I spent my first zero day at Gooder Grove hostel in Franklin NC and it was a restful and fun break. Zen Gooder has turned is sweet home near downtown Franklin into a peaceful place for hikers to choose a bunk or private room, share food and gear and socialize together. Chuck was happy toContinue reading “From Gooder to Great”
2 Big Days + 1 Great Dog = My First 0
We spent a rainy day on Thursday with Glider in Hiawassee doing some resupply chores and watching The Office reruns. I thought I was coming down with a cold so took enough vitamin C to kill a horse and stayed in bed instead of hitting the AYCE (all you can eat – it’s a bigContinue reading “2 Big Days + 1 Great Dog = My First 0”
Nero Hero
A Nero is not a day off of hiking but shorter morning miles and then high tailing it into town for rest and resupply. We got up early today at Deep Gap and headed out with Jessica aka Glider for an easy 4 mile hike to Dick’s Creek Gap to meet our shuttle into ourContinue reading “Nero Hero”
The Trail Provides
I’ve heard this phrase “The Trail Provides” so many times already and for good reason. I can hardly believe that there is this beautifully maintained 2,200 mile trail designed just for you to get away from it all. On top that, it is surrounded by real live trail angels that are there to make yourContinue reading “The Trail Provides”
Weight Drop and Reset
We had a pretty dry night last night but woke up to some showers and it was a challenge to pack up our gear in the rain. Fortunately it wasn’t too cold so putting on our wet clothes and heading out early at 7:30 wasn’t too bad. As we climbed out of Low Gap ShelterContinue reading “Weight Drop and Reset”
Neel and Neil
We have a few extra hours of tent time ahead of us as we got into camp early to hide out from the rain. Here is a short recap of the last 2 days. I slept in a little at Gooch Shelter and then had an easy hike to meet Neil at Woody Gap. WeContinue reading “Neel and Neil”
One Day. Day One.
One day I am going to take a break from work and set out on a long hike with Chuck. We are going to take our time and enjoy the experience fully. I am going to give myself permission to go slow and work on being in the moment. We are going to take breaksContinue reading “One Day. Day One.”
Until I Get Another Message From Myself
If you could invite three people to a dinner party who would they be? I have to cheat a little on this one because a couple of my guests would need to come in character. I would invite Larry David & Susie Essman (in character as Susie Greene from Curb Your Enthusiasm). Larry is justContinue reading “Until I Get Another Message From Myself”
Missing My Underwater Friends
As my AT start date gets closer I am really getting nervous and also starting to think hard about all of the wonderful things I’m going to be missing while on trail. I am going to really miss Bryan and even our cat LD. Even though he is a jerk (LD that is) I stillContinue reading “Missing My Underwater Friends”
Introducing My Super Bestie Neil
There is a new book out by Lydia Denworth called Friendship – The Evolution, Biology, and Extraordinary Power of Life’s Fundamental Bond. Lydia explores two main questions: how friendship works and why friendship works. It turns out that it may be life’s most important bond and actually improve our evolutionary fitness and chances of survival.Continue reading “Introducing My Super Bestie Neil”
The Gear is Here and the Trail is Near – You are way overthinking this . . .
Planning for the AT has been a blast and the very best part of that has been studying and tracking down all of the gear. I’ve put in tons of research and talked to everyone that I would listen. I have test-hiked everything and woke many a night to make notes and minor adjustments. Sure,Continue reading “The Gear is Here and the Trail is Near – You are way overthinking this . . .”
The Appalachian Adventure
This is happening. After 10 years of planning and dreaming I am finally heading out on the trail with my hiking buddy Chuck to have fun and figure a few things out. Please join me starting February 29. In the meantime, here is a poem by David Wagoner that I love. Lost Stand still. TheContinue reading “The Appalachian Adventure”