There was a great restaurant in Decatur called “Sun in My Belly.” It was one of our standards for a great brunch and the name always made me smile. What it has always meant to me was that feeling of flow. “Flow” is being “in the zone” – a mental state where an athlete is fully immersed, energized, and focused on performance. Actions feel automatic, self-consciousness vanishes, and time seems to slow down as skills match the challenge. I was lucky enough get back to the flow state today on one of the most beautiful sections of gravel in the world.
We loved the school hostel but I was ready to get moving again and get away from the creepy dolls they had there. There was something about the two of us being alone on the desolate spit of land in the North Atlantic – the wind howling and the Terns screeching in the dusky midnight. It was a little creepy. I swear those dolls were watching us. It was time to get moving despite the insane conditions. The wind had just gotten stronger overnight and I had 55 miles to get to our next overnight. The local weather service was now reporting sustained winds of 60 MPH with gusts over 70 MPH. Fortunately, that beast was going to be at my back all day so I geared up and headed out while John headed back north to try to find a grocery store.
There was a light drizzle and the skies were low and dark as I headed back down the road that I came down the day before. The wind felt great as I made the turn off the main road at the head of the fjord. This was the beginning of the most beautiful section of dirt road that wound through a valley and up a gentle but long mountain pass. The hills were sparkling emerald green and dotted with cascading waterfalls and sheep. I encountered two water crossings so I decided to remove my socks and shoes to cross both and then dry off on the other side. That was the right move as it was close to freezing temperatures and I pretended the water was providing some much needed free cryotherapy.
The climb up over the pass was amazing. Just steep enough to be a challenge but with the wind I was sailing through. The gravel road was mostly smooth with some fun rocky sections to test out my gear. I have to say that my new Checkpoint feels great in these conditions. The weight of my bike-packing bags add just enough stability to provide a really smooth ride. I chose 45 MM tires for this trip and they are the perfect width. I was having a blast and starting to feel that elusive sense of flow. Feeling connected to the bike, the wind and even the rain. It was all as it should be. I was channeling all of the happy memories of Chuck and cruising along with a big grin.
I cruised down the other side of the pass and greeted the western coast for the first time of the trip. The course turned hard left and then hugged the north coast of a huge bay. The rain slowed down to a trickle and the views were breathtaking. One of those moments that you can’t believe you made happen. If I only did one ride on this trip, this one would be enough. That sense of being connected with a place was so warm and right – just like sun in my belly. I shed a few tears of joy as I cruised down the coast road with about 20 miles to go. The horses must have been feeling it too because they came down to greet me and played in the wind.
I sailed down the road and towards this really narrow passageway in between two huge boulders. As I got closer, I could feel the wind pushing and pulling me faster and was catapulted through the rocks to the other side. Right after I shot through, the wind caught me from the side and knocked me down hard. Fortunately, it was a pretty smooth section of gravel but it took me a minute to get myself unclipped from my pedals and everything back upright. I tried to get back on the bike but the wind was now hitting me head on and I couldn’t stay upright. I only had about 3 miles left but the wind wouldn’t even let me walk my bike. I crouched down in a ditch and sent a text to John. He came a rescued me and we struggled just trying to get the bike the car in these insane conditions.
I was so happy to get to our hostel. I spent a few hours detailing my bike and gear. Everything was caked in mud and grime. We had a great dinner and watched the forecast carefully. The wind was still crazy but it was supposed to die off overnight. It was an amazing day with a dramatic finish. Just what Iceland promised.
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