I have been to some remote places before but nothing compares to this part of Iceland. It’s a beautiful place but so stark and desolate feeling at times. The wind was howling again today when John dropped me off in Holmavik to start my ride. It was at my back for the first few miles – until it wasn’t! I made a turn to hug the coast and the cross and headwinds were incredibly intense – so strong that it pushed me off the gravel road a few times. I was averaging just 5 MPH as I tried to keep myself upright. The views were amazing though as I rode through a bird sanctuary and caught some sheep hanging out on the beach. Man, what I wouldn’t give for their wooly protection from the cold right now.
The ride from Holmavik to our next stop was just 23 miles but the wind made it feel twice as long. John was so kind to give our German friends a hitch all the way to their next town nearly 90 miles away. I battled the wind along the coast until I took a sharp right turn west and had the monster at my back for a few miles. I just sat up in the saddle and was going over 20 MPH without pedaling! I couldn’t really enjoy it though knowing that I was going to face it head on at the head of the fjord for the final 4 miles slog to the hostel. I was right to be worried – the wind was vicious as I made the turn back east and I was head down cranking on the pedals in my easiest gear for the rest of the way in. My heart rate was over 140 as I slowly made progress along the gravel road. The distance slowly ticked away and I could finally see the famous Rainbow Barn that marked the turn off to our hostel.
We booked a room at this cool place that used to be a school at the end of a peninsula famous for its colonies of Arctic Tern and Puffins. The school was built in the mid century architectural style and its huge windows overlook the eastern coast. It is now operated as a very comfortable hostel with a nice kitchen and a huge game room. My favorite part was this cozy reading nook overlooking the Puffin island. I made a coffee and spent a few hours reading, napping and waiting for the feeling to come back to my toes.
John and I explored the bird colonies but were too far away to see the Puffins clearly. We could just make out their bright beaks from the shore – hundreds of them were hunkered down on their small island waiting out the storm but the Arctic Tern were doing the opposite. All day long, the Tern were flying around in the strong wind and singing their eerie screech of a song. I got up in the middle of the night and a few of them were still at it. I tried to catch a video of them in action.
We had a lazy afternoon and then cooked a nice dinner together. We both got to bed early listening to the wind howl and shake the windows. This storm has just gotten stronger. Tomorrow’s ride promises to be a real adventure mostly on gravel across a mountain pass with several stream crossings. I am hoping for the best but I’ll admit these crazy conditions did keep me awake with worry a bit through the night. The wind promises to be at my back but will report back when I make it to the wet side of Iceland.
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