NOBO By Bus

I need to get out of Chile – and soon. If I stay much longer, I’m going to buy a truck and start gathering up all of these sweet street dogs and take them home with me. It will be a hell of a long trip back to Seattle but we will take lots of fun walk breaks. I love dogs so deeply I can’t hardly describe it and these guys and gals can sense it. Ok, maybe it’s all the cooing and eye contact that I’m making but they know a sucker when they see one. I was walking back to my campsite in Cochrane last night and this adorable scruffy guy just wouldn’t take no for an answer. He followed me down the sidewalk, scooted ahead of me and then flopped down on his back demanding a belly rub. It was an aggressive move but it worked on me and we spent some quality time together.

I was sitting on a park bench earlier in the afternoon and watched a cute white dog get his steps in. He rounded the block five times in the thirty minutes I was sitting there and glanced my way with a “What’s Up” nod each time he passed. There can be as many as ten dogs all hanging on together on street corners together. They sleep on busy street corners, roam around the town square, bark at each other all night and generally rule the town. Some are skittish but most of them just love attention. I approach them carefully and wait for them to come to me. It’s been a great way to pass the time in town as I am making my slow slog back north.

I just got off a bus in Coyhaique after more than sixteen hours crammed in a tiny seat. I kept my face pressed against the window wishing I was back on my saddle pushing that heavy bike up those gravel hills. I saw a few cyclists heading north and waved a jealous hello. They didn’t know how good they had it. The first section from O’Higgins to Cochrane was about seven hours including a ferry crossing and a flat tire. We heard a huge pop from the front left tire about two hours into the ride and knew right away what happened. The bus driver handled it like a pro. He knew exactly what to do and we were back on the road in about thirty minutes. I treated myself to a great dinner in Cochrane with a huge salad. Fresh vegetables are pretty hard to come by so far south and I was craving it. I found a good backyard campsite in town and slept well for my next leg to Coyhaique at 6:30AM the next day.

This one nearly broke me. I don’t sit still well and this was another nine hours of restlessness. To enhance the challenge, the guy behind me spent every single second that we had cell service on f’ing TikTok with the speaker on full volume. It was hours and hours of ten second clips of police sirens, screaming, car crashes, bad music and laugh tracks. By the time we pulled into the bus station in Coyhaique, I was about to jump out of my skin. I had all of my bags packed and ready to dart out of the door for sunshine and fresh air. I pushed old ladies aside and pushed my way off of that bus. I hit the ground running and quickly dropped my bags at my hostel and headed out for a long brisk walk around the town. I was getting MY steps in now. Maybe that poor dog had just bussed it from O’Higgins. I get it now.

My hostel in Coyhaique is great. I met a bunch of cyclists heading south and told them how much they had to look forward to. They are about to run out of pavement and that’s where the fun really begins. I love this place and can’t wait for them to experience the incredible views and sweet farm stays deep in Patagonia. These northern towns are fun but the real adventure starts here. I’ve really fallen in love with this place. It’s friendly, safe and beautiful. The streets are tidy and the food is amazing. Their recycling infrastructure is very good – I’ve seen well organized and large recycling centers in even the smallest towns.

I’m ready to get back to Bryan and Chuck but leaving next week will be bitter sweet. I’ve really enjoyed experiencing South America and can’t believe it’s taken me so long to get here. I have a fun weekend planned in Santiago. I found all of the art museums I want to visit, a good yoga studio and even an Olympic size swimming pool – all near the apartment I am renting. I’m going to soak up the last little bit of sweet Chile – for now. I’ll be back soon for more of all of the great things that makes this place so special.