Pictures First, Help Second

The last few days have not gone has planned but I’ve never had more fun on a thru hike. I think I’ve finally found what works best for me on the TA. First, always follow kindness and second, embrace change. I think I’ve always followed the first rule but the second one is pretty new to me. I’m the kind of guy that gets shit done no matter what gets in the way. One of my work colleagues nicknamed me “The Plow.” Now I’m thinking I might have been missing out – at least when it comes to this trail. The TA just wasn’t designed or built for the purist and it doesn’t reward those that don’t open themselves up to spontaneous adventures as they come along. This isn’t the AT, PCT or CDT and it isn’t trying to be. It can offer so much more if you are just willing to be open to all of the incredible options that are out there. Look around and you’ll find out that it isn’t just all about crushing miles of trail.

The holiday season is in full swing now and it seems like every Kiwi in the country is out enjoying the lakes, trails and mountains of the South Island. I can’t blame them – it’s so beautiful here and there is so much to do. The rain stopped the morning after Christmas and I headed out with Kazu from Arthur’s Pass to get back on trail. He was worried about the rivers being flooded after the heavy rains in the next trail section so he planned a fifty mile road walk around the trails to our next stop in Lake Coleridge. I initially agreed to the plan but after seven miles along the highway I just couldn’t stand the road anymore so I said goodbye for now to Kazu and cut away to the trail. It turns out I made the right decision. The trail was so beautiful and there was a gentle but steady climb up and over the hills with wide views of Arthur’s Pass. After a long and peaceful day on the trail, I arrived at Hamilton Hut at 8 PM and had a late dinner.

I set out really early the next day to get a good start on the thirty miles into Lake Coleridge. I hiked from 5 AM until about 2 PM and found myself on a pretty boring stretch of gravel road into town. A few miles later, a big black BMW pulled up and asked if I wanted a ride. This kind of crazy nice hospitality happens all of the time here. I didn’t have my thumb out and was just heads down hiking. I’m not going to turn that kind of kindness down and I threw my pack in the trunk and got in the back seat. There was another passenger back there with me and they clambered for the window button to get some fresh air as the stench of my hiking shirt filled the car. They were incredibly sweet to me and fed me chocolate as they took me the last few miles to their turnoff. I then had just a three mile walk into town and stayed at a famous trail angel’s house called the Powerhouse Lodge.

In Lake Coleridge, I found out that my friends Francois and Alan are close by traveling in their camper van and they offered to help me get around the two impassible rivers that lie just south of Lake Coleridge. This is a frustrating feature of the South Island trail. The Rakaia and the Rangitata rivers are large braided rivers that are deep and fast. The Rakaia is absolutely off limits to cross but some hikers are crossing the Rangitata but with a big asterisk. There have been some harrowing helicopter rescues recently on the Rangitata after the river rose too fast and I just didn’t want to take that risk. I happily accepted the hitch around and had a great time catching up with Francois and Alan at their campsite in Tekapo. They made a huge dinner complete with a fine Merlot, a fresh salad, grilled corn and chicken. A far cry from my usual noodle soup and canned salmon combo. I felt a little guilty enjoying such a feast while my trail buddies are not but hey – this one combined my two new rules so it had to be okay.

In Tekapo, I found out it was possible to cycle the next section. I rented a mountain bike and tied all of my gear onto the back and headed out for a sixty mile ride to Lake Ohau. The ride was flat and fast and I heroed Twizel. A hero is where you blow through town quick for a resupply and then get back on trail the same day. They are hard! Town has all the things you’ve been missing but it can suck you in. I stopped for quick lunch and resupply trip at the store and then got back on my bike. The skies were crystal clear and the winds were calm as a sped along listening to music and feeling like a kid on his first bike again. Bikepacking is so sweet after the long slog of hiking. I stopped for a snack along the lake with dramatic views of Mt. Cook and spent some time planning out a bigger bikepacking trip when my buddy Sean gets here next week. I want to spend some more time doing this and it will also give me a chance to check out the fjords.

I got to Lake Ohau Lodge around 4 PM and met some NOBO hikers from California. They gave me some great advice on the next sections and I did the same. It’s so fun to exchange information and it’s so helpful for planning. The lodge hosted a huge three course dinner and I met a lovely couple from Sweden and we stayed up way past my bedtime chatting. That little voice in my head was screaming – “What are you doing? You have miles to hike tomorrow – go to bed!” Rule number one kicked in and these two kind and smart people were such a pleasure to talk with for so long. Isn’t this is what traveling is all about?

I had planned to solo hike for the next few days into Queenstown but then met Jans – a really great kid from Germany on the trail today and we hiked this beautiful section together and camped along the river about eighteen miles out. We shared a ton of funny trail stories but I think the one that made me laugh the hardest was a rule that his last trail family came up with together – pictures first, help second. Hikers do so many dumb but harmless things each day on trail. Getting stuck in mud, falling in ice cold rivers and sliding down embankments happen just about every day. No serious harm done but they are pretty funny moments that they all agreed to catch on camera first and then help you out of your mess. I think it’s a great policy. Hang on – just gotta get that shot before I lift you out of that cow dung.

It poured down rain that night and the wind was rocking my tent hard. I got a little wet and very little sleep but woke up to a beautiful sunrise and clear skies. We read the trail notes carefully and found out about an alternative route called Melina Ridge. It was about three miles longer and steeper than the TA route but other hikers were raving about the views and boy were they right. The climb up to the ridge started right after a private hut where we ran into four cows just hanging out around the hut. They were making a mess of the place but they were holding their ground so we let them be.

Once we got up on the ridge the views were just incredible. The trail was easy to follow and most of it was 4×4 track with a few narrow connectors across vertical scree fields. The most intense part of the day was the wind. It was funneled up from the valley and was at top speed as it broke the lip of the steep ridges. It was honestly hard to stand up for a good part of these sections. I cinched all of my gear down tight and tied the hood of my jacket as tight as I could to reduce some of the drag as I carefully stepped along leaning into the gusts. It was all worth it though for the miles long views of the southern alps.

We pushed on another three miles along a river after we came down from the climb and camped at a beautiful spot next to a waterfall. The only downside were the sandflies – they own this site and quickly covered us with bites until we could get inside of our tents. I made dinner in my tent and started to doze off. It wasn’t a particularly long day – twenty miles. But, battling the wind really wore me out. I was happy that I did the alternative route though – it was a probably my favorite section on the TA so far. Thanks rule number two!

Hiking into Lake Hawea Village tomorrow to get a restaurant meal and a dorm bed for New Year’s Eve. So much to be thankful for in 2023 and it will be fun to be one of the first to celebrate the New Year.