Deep in Sheep

I wish my spirit animal was something cool and fierce like a tiger or a wolf but I’m afraid it may be sheep. They are so sweet and curious about us hikers. Or, they might just be admiring my fancy new merino wool hoodie and tight beard trim. Either way – they are great company. I bought a bag of sheep food in town and had a blast feeding them a snack. We are deep in sheep country now and hiking the spectacular bright green windswept hills of the central North Island. This is the hiking I was dreaming about when I decided to go to New Zealand. The sun was shining and there was a cool breeze bouncing off of the pastures mixed with the sweet sound of young lambs calling out to each other. It was a perfect first day after we left the hustle of Hamilton.

Yesterday, we rented a car and drove out to Rotorua which is known for its natural hot springs and geysers. We found a beautiful hot spring that was the perfect temperature. I mean PERFECT – like the best bath that you’ve ever had and it never goes cold. It felt amazing to soak my sore legs and feet in the water and bury them in the hot sand below. It was hard to leave this pool but it was a great treat. On the way home, we stopped by Hamilton Gardens and toured their enclosed gardens exhibit. They had English, Japanese, Chinese, Māori and California style gardens but the most magnificent was the Italian Renaissance garden. I happened to catch it late in the day during the golden hour and the light was perfect. A great way to finish off our quick tour of the area.

Thomas has rejoined us and we were all really anxious to get back on the trail. We camped in a trail angel’s yard last night and planned out the next few days together. These little side trips are fun but the long hard days of hiking in the backcountry are really what I wanted most out of this trip. Looking back on my AT experience, I felt like I went on that hike with a long and heavy list of things to work through. I was also hiking through a global pandemic and carrying a lot of guilt and fear along the way. This hike feels different. I don’t have a list to work on. In fact, my main goal everyday is to let my mind rest. I am spending my long days out here just trying to focus on what’s in front of me. My mind races in a million directions like always but I tell myself several times a day that I can just let it rest. I listen to my footsteps and heavy breaths and let my shoulders and jaw muscles take a break. I think it’s working. When the thoughts and fears do surface I try my best to acknowledge them and let them keep going on their way.

One thing I know for sure is that I do my best thinking out here. My mind is most at rest when my body is pushing miles on the trail with a heavy pack. It’s the fresh air, sunshine and clean water. Something clicks as soon as I step off of the busy road and start following the trail markers. Body on, mind off. I just finished a book by Clancy Reese who spent most of his life guiding white water rafting trips and he put it perfectly when he described how he felt about his hard and dangerous work on the rapids – “I’m supposed to be here. I feel very much at home, at ease and comforted between the songs of the birds and water and the silence of the stones and the canyon.” Me too Clancy. Me too.

We are headed into the mountains tomorrow and the next few days look great. We are done with big cities and towns for the next few weeks and I couldn’t be happier about it. My pack is super heavy with supplies but that just means I am headed out into the woods to be with the sheep and birds. Restful nights sleeping by noisy rivers and pushing myself on hard climbs. Eased and comforted for sure.