Today was an emotional roller coaster. I worked hard yesterday and I planned a relaxing fifty mile ride to my next campsite next to two streams. There was one long climb in the works but it otherwise looked like it would be an easy day. I slept in and took my time packing up and getting on the road around 9AM. There was a 50 mile running race on my route out of the canyon and it was a blast to cheer on all of the runners. My body felt good and the weather was cool and dry. It was setting up to be an awesome day.
I zoomed down the hill and stopped in Prineville for breakfast at Dad’s Diner. The wait staff (well, really one frazzled woman working the whole place) kept apologizing for the wait but I was happy as I could be. I was sitting in a warm diner with a cup of coffee. Take your time! My breakfast was amazing and I headed back out on the road around Noon for the big climb. I didn’t have to stop by the bike shop after all since my rear derailleur somehow fixed itself over night. I did lose my temper and told it to “KNOCK IT OFF” the day before so maybe it got the message.
The climb was long but wound through beautiful horse farms and the grade was pretty gentle. I got to my intended campsite at 3PM and checked out the water situation. Yikes – nothing around.. I was down to a half a bottle and all of the nearby streams were bone dry. I got back on my bike and the trail entered into The Nye Ranch. The Nye Ranch is possibly the biggest and most unfriendly ranch in the world. They posted big NO TRESPASSING signs on both sides of the road about every 25 yards and installed miles of barbed wire just in case you wanted to test their resolve. I stopped by a nasty ditch and scooped a few bottles of water out and ran them through my filter just in case this was the last water until Shaniko.
So now I had water and just needed a place to set up camp but I was in a literal tunnel of private property for what seemed like an endless slog. I road for three hours and I was still deep in Nye Ranch. I was getting pretty cranky and a little worried about what I was going to do about camp. I could always push the 35 miles to Shaniko but I really really didn’t want to do that after the long day yesterday. I was about to give up hope when the course rolled into a small town called Ashwood and saw a friendly sign for ice cream and soda.
I rounded the corner and this beautiful sight was waiting for me. A refrigerator stocked with Cokes, Gatorade and ice cream bars for cyclists. All of my anxiety slipped away as I grabbed a Coke and felt welcome again. The Nye Ranch situation was unnerving but this sweet gesture made me feel like I belonged here. I met a friendly woman’s across the street and asked her if I could set up camp. She cheerfully pointed me to her back yard full of friendly dogs, a nice level yard, picnic tables and a pit toilet. I have arrived!
It’s days like this that keep me coming back to do these adventures. It just takes small acts of kindness to make this such a special experience. This town has about four buildings in the middle of nowhere but I would honestly not want to be anywhere else right now. It might be Coke talking but I felt so happy setting up my tent in the sunset surrounded by this beautiful landscape and filled with simple hospitality. You can’t buy these experiences.
The icing on the cake is that I’ll have more time to chill in my hotel in Shaniko. I desperately need a shower and a chance to inventory and organize my bike pack situation. I don’t think there is much to do there but that suits me just fine. Just like today, I know the trail will provide what I need. Tonight it provided this stunning campsite in a quiet town. The crickets are singing and the Pinion trees smell amazing.
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