The Last Light Lodge

I left Te Anau early and got a hitch from an American guy that was traveling around New Zealand for a few weeks. He was thinking about starting the Appalachian Trail this year but he was on the fence. I think I talked him into it as well as providing him with a complete gear list and telling him about my favorite hiking store – Mountain Crossings. We had coffee together at my drop off point and I headed back on the trail. I was back to hiking alone for the day and enjoyed a pretty easy pace into the next hut about seventeen miles from the trailhead. The terrain was pretty challenging – lots of steep climbing and descending through a technical section and then big sections through high tussock grass. I got to the Aparima hut around 3:30 PM and my hiking buddies Kazu, Ryoji, Tito and Caesar were all there. The hut was pretty dilapidated and full of sandflies but we had a good time catching up and getting some rest.

I got up at 4 AM and was back on trail at 4:30 AM. The stars were out and my headlamp guided me slowly up the technical trail that led towards Linton Station. This was going to be a big day – thirty one miles through the largest farm in New Zealand. Once we got to the boarder of the farm we couldn’t stop until we got to Birchwood. The farm allows hikers to pass through but they don’t allow camping. The first eight hours were pretty hard and slow going but as soon as I entered Linton Station it was all fast 4WD track for the remaining six hours of the hike. Along the way, I met a NOBO hiker that was really sick. Her eyes were full of tears and she said she had been vomiting all morning. I immediately thought of norovirus. It’s common on thru hikes and spreads quickly amongst hikers. I asked if she needed anything but she just wanted to get to the next hut to rest.

Linton Station was a beautiful hike. The pastures were huge and we walked straight through paddocks filled with sheep, cows and bulls. One bull in particular was not too happy with me walking through his neighborhood and he let me know by slowly cutting me off the trail and mooing at me. I gave him some space and was happy that he didn’t get any closer. I was pretty wiped out by the time I got into the Birchwood hut around 6:30. It had been a long day and I was happy to get to this private hut with a shower and a bunk bed. Birchwood was filled with NOBOs – there were at least twelve northbound hikers sprawled all over the hut resting and planning their next day.

The next day into Merrivale hut was much easier. I had just one steep climb but the seventeen mile day felt so easy after hiking more than thirty the day before. Kazu, Rolph and I shared the tiny private Merrivale hut next to a big deer farm. I was getting a pretty good night’s sleep in the rain until I woke up around midnight with severe stomach cramps and all of the other fun things that go along with that. I couldn’t keep anything down but was also really thirsty and I felt like I was running a bit of a fever. The other guys left for their hike early in the morning while I tried to figure out what to do next. There was no way that I was going to be able to walk today so I went out to the road and waited about forty five minutes for a hitch. The wait and the ride were pretty uncomfortable. I had refrained from eating or drinking but still felt really nauseous.

My hitch dropped me off at the Last Light Lodge in Tuatapere and luckily they had a private room available. I showered and climbed into bed for the rest of the day. The hotel owner was so sweet and brought me dinner to my room since I didn’t want to be out and about and getting anyone else sick. Doing a little research online, I was pretty sure that this was norovirus. I had all of the symptoms and I am guessing that I picked it up at Birchwood hut given the crowded conditions and timing of my symptoms. I felt lucky to be in a warm bed and off trail for a few days. I ran a pretty high fever for the first night but then felt a little better the next day. Not fully recovered, I decided to take another rest day before walking again tomorrow.

Kazu was anxious to get done so he did something pretty crazy. He hiked the roads for sixty five miles straight from Merrivale to the finish at Bluff. It took him twenty four hours of continuous walking but he made it. I think his finishing picture says it all. I’ll miss hiking with him. He is a driven and friendly guy that really loves pushing himself. While I didn’t join him on some of his more extreme walking days, I admire him for it. He’s a tough dude. Tuatapere is a sleepy town and I’m ready to get back on the road. I hope I’ll feel better tomorrow and can head off for the last three days of South Island hiking to Bluff.