Holidays on Trail

There are many strange things about this holiday season for me. Summer is in full swing and it’s hard to get into the spirit when mosquitoes and sunscreen are top of mind. But the weirdest part is that I’m so far away from home. I know I’m not the only one struggling with this part of the hike. It’s been really interesting listening to and watching what my other hikers did to prepare for the holidays. Some were getting off trail to spend time in Christchurch or Queenstown while others were trying to pick up some extra food and make it to a cool hut to chill for a few days. It was sweet to hear about their preparations and how different they all were but there was one thing in common – everyone wanted some serious rest. Like a total zero kind of day. No laundry, resupply or other chores. Just sleeping in, eating great food and resting our worn out legs and feet.

After my great day in Hanmer Springs, I took a shuttle back to the trailhead where I left off and spent the night at the Outdoor Education Center. They sold frozen pizzas and cokes and had a sweet little bunkhouse for hikers to spend the night. I met a new buddy named Will from Australia and also reconnected with Kazu. I thought he was way ahead of me but he was actually behind me. I’m not sure how I missed him but it was great to reconnect with him as I stepped out for my hike the next day. Kazu hitched into Hanmer to buy jam and Nutella. Yes, you heard me right. A thirty mile hitchhike into town for these two treats that he has been talking about for weeks. He didn’t have room in his backpack so the poor kid is hiking with a shopping bag. I think he is crazy but he really really wanted more food and was willing to carry a heavy tote bag along so he’s doing it! He’s reached the point where his stomach is making the decisions.

The next section from Boyle to Arthur’s Pass was pretty chill. The trail was pretty tame and it had a robust hut system. In the middle of the second day, I came along a hot springs pool that felt amazing except for the one billion mosquitoes that came out to feast on my face and neck while I soaked. It was a quick dip and then back onto the trail. Some of the huts on this section are pretty old but well loved. They each have their own personality. The Cameron Hut was described on our trail app by one the hikers as what “prison in Ecuador in the 70s was like.” It was cute from the outside – freshly painted and clean but they nailed the description of the interior. It was pretty grim with concrete floors and one of the bunks was filled up with firewood. I moved on until I found a better one but it made me chuckle.

I actually really love these older huts. They have a lot of history and everyone keeps good care of them. It’s so nice how everyone leaves them swept and rubbish free. I always take the time for some extra tidying before I head out as a thank you for the shelter and to leave it nice for my fellow hikers. These aren’t fancy by any stretch but it feels like checking into the Ritz when you arrive after a twenty five mile hike. Water, a bed, a fireplace and a long drop toilet. Pure luxury.

The third and last day of this section was a little frustrating. The trail app mentioned that it wasn’t marked very well and they were so right. After a few miles, the markers just disappeared and left me stumbling around in a wide rocky riverbed. It’s not fun to have to hike over boulders and also not knowing if you are on the right track. It was slow going and I had to keep a constant check on my GPS to stay on trail. It finally led back into the bush to a pretty challenging narrow trail with steep profiles along a river bed. I got to the road intersection around 1 PM and hitched a ride into Arthur’s Pass from an awesome Dutch transplant that immigrated to New Zealand eight years ago. She was out training for the Coast to Coast ultra adventure race in February. It was great to hear about her race stories as she whisked me into town.

I rented a bunk at a cool place called the New Zealand Alpine lodge. It is a climbers lodge that opens up unused bunks for hikers for $20 NZD a night. They have hot showers, electricity and a full kitchen. I told my hiking buddies about the deal and five of them showed up to spend the holidays together. The timing was perfect as the rain started to come down hard. We are assembling a big puzzle together, taking naps and drying our clothes in the living room. Maybe not a traditional Christmas Eve but it’s a blast. There is one store/cafe in town and we made a trip down there for Christmas lunch of hamburgers and fries. They have very naughty Kea birds on the cafe porch that try to steal your food. These native parrots are even more aggressive than the weka! I saw one hiker literally play tug of war with a kea over his bag of sugar. They have no fear.

I’m hoping the weather improves and I can get back on trail tomorrow. I love the rest but already anxious to get back on trail. We have some logistical challenges coming up to hitch around two dangerous rivers and that can take a few days I’m told. Happy Holidays to everyone and I wish you all a restful and peaceful time with family and friends. Don’t forget the sunscreen and bug spray this season. Thanks again for following along.